- Type: Rosaceae
- Flowering Period: June, July, August, September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, vinous
- Perennial
- Winters
- Sun loving
- Loving
Siberians joke that wimps do not survive in their harsh winters. We need a persistent character, not only to people, but also to plants. So the criteria for selecting flowers for the design of the site in Siberian conditions are much more stringent than for the Moscow region or the southern regions of the country. And yet, residents of cold regions have successfully grown even prickly beauties of roses. They developed many interesting ways of sheltering plants, planting tricks to protect the root system in severe winters. We looked at the forums of Siberian gardeners and selected the most important information about frost-resistant varieties, shelter technology for the winter and what features planting roses in the spring in Siberia has.
Varieties of roses for cold climates
The Siberian climate is known to be characterized by late spring, short summers and severe winters. To withstand such conditions, plants must initially be zoned in the local climate. Those. seedlings grown in Siberian nurseries are the leaders in terms of survival rate. Gardeners give the second place to Canadian roses, because the climate of this country is similar to Siberian. But real Canadian roses, unfortunately, are rare. This category of plants is too attractive for buyers, so it is most often faked. Canadian varieties are best obtained only from a reliable supplier, and, of course, not with hands or in the market.
And you can also grow a rose from the cuttings, read about it: //diz-cafe.com/vopros-otvet/razmnozhenie-roz-cherenkami.html
The second selection criterion is vaccination. According to statistics, grafted rose varieties in Siberia are much easier to tolerate winters and do not freeze, because they have higher immunity. Rosehip usually acts as a stock for a varietal rose, and its immune system is much more resilient than that of its own roots.
Here is what, according to gardeners in Siberia, looks like the five most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of roses:
First Place: Rosarium Uetersen
It belongs to the Climber group, i.e. large-flowered climbing roses. It can be grown as a standard. Blooms dark pink with a gradual fading of the petals. The size of the flower can reach 12 cm, but the colder the climate, the smaller the inflorescences. The approximate size of flowers for Novosibirsk is 5-6 cm. Rosarium Uetersen is loved for its resistance to fungal infections, repeated flowering (the first is the most abundant, and after - the waves). Powerful stems are not afraid of either frost or wind. Gardeners can ruin this rose unless improperly stacked for the winter, when the stems break apart from the wrong picking direction. The bush sweeps up to 3 meters.
Rosary Wethersen fits perfectly in arches, pergolas and other supporting structures, and if desired, it can be grown as a standard
Runner Up: Westerland
German variety adored in Siberia for continuous flowering. This rose wakes up and blooms very early, and after almost does not remain without flowers. The flowers change color from bright orange to apricot-salmon. In diameter - up to 10 cm. It has ADR certificate as one of the most unpretentious roses.
Timely removal of blooming flowers from Westerland climbing roses stimulates the bush to actively grow and form new flower buds
Third Place: New Dawn
A descendant of American roses. It blooms with delicate pink, fragrant flowers for almost the entire season. Siberian gardeners gave her the nickname "Very", i.e. very frost-resistant, very unpretentious (grows everywhere), very prickly, very fragrant, etc. The only caveat: recently there have been instances of New Dawn that bloom only once. Therefore, before ordering, specify the number of blooms, otherwise you can see this beauty only once, at the beginning of summer.
Siberians believe that New Down lives under the motto “Everyone will be lost, but I will stay”, because it survives in the most inhuman conditions
Fourth Place: William Sheakespeare 2000
ANew generation English rose nurtured by world famous breeder David Austin. It blooms with velvety rich red flowers, gradually turning into a purple hue. Fragrant, medium height (up to 110 cm), on each branch forms many flowering brushes. When buying, pay attention to the presence of the numbers 2000, since there is also the ancestor of this rose - William Sheakespeare, which does not have such a high immunity to fungal infections.
William Shakespeare 2000 - the result of breeding the English "ancestor" of the same name, which is highly immune to diseases and excellent frost resistance
Fifth place: Golden Celebration
Another David Austin pet. Blooms twice, bright yellow large flowers, similar to balls, exuding a lemon-caramel flavor. In cold climates it grows up to one and a half meters high. Almost not susceptible to diseases, except for black spotting. Looks great in mixborders.
You can learn more about how to create a mixborder from perennials: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/miksborder-iz-mnogoletnikov-poshagovo.html
The sunny, large inflorescences of Golden Celebration smell like lemon candies, so they are planted near recreational areas to enjoy the wondrous aroma
Choosing a location: looking for the sunny side
Due to the fact that in Siberia spring comes late, and there are not very many sunny days in a year, they try to plant roses from the south side. But a completely open area is not very profitable, since the flowering period is significantly accelerated, and the flowers burn out in the heat. It is best to consider light penumbra with the help of sparse shrubs or trees. Roses near them are planted in such a way that in the hottest time of the day they are protected by the foliage of "neighbors".
It is advisable to select high places for the rosary. There, the degree of soil freezing is always less, which means that the roots will wake up faster. This will save the plant from the increased humidity, which is characteristic of lowlands. Too much moisture provokes the development of rot and fungal infections.
Strong winds are not uncommon in Siberia, and a cold front sets in both from the north and from the west. From these directions (north, north-west and north-east) roses need protection in the form of buildings, arbors, hedges, etc. But the wall should be at such a distance that the shadow on the bushes is not cast.
Material about plants suitable for hedges will also be useful: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/rasteniya-dlya-zhivoj-izgorodi.html
Landing rules: light earth + depth
For the Siberian climate, spring plantings are desirable, and their term is much shorter than in other areas. The planting season begins in May, when the soil warms up to 10 degrees. Gardeners determine the optimal time for dandelions: as soon as they bloomed - time to plant rose bushes. The grafted seedlings are planted first, because the dogrose is not afraid of sudden late frosts. Own roses - not earlier than May 15. The maximum landing period is June 15th. If you are late, the rose will not have time to get stronger in a short summer and will leave for the winter without a lignified trunk. So, it will easily freeze.
The Siberian planting of roses is not very different from other areas. Prickly beauties like slightly acidic soils with a high humus content. The basis of the soil may be loam. It is good to plant pits at the bottom of the landing and sprinkle with earth rotted horse manure, which will warm the roots. Bushes are not planted directly in manure, so as not to burn young roots.
The optimal composition of the earth: 1 part clay + 1 part sand + 3 parts humus + 2 parts peat + 0.5 parts wood ash. It’s good if you immediately make special fertilizer for roses.
Landing Rules:
- The depth of the landing pit is not less than half a meter.
- Purchased seedlings are dipped in a solution of water with a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours, so that they are saturated with moisture.
- Too long roots (above 20 cm) shorten, stimulating the growth of lateral roots.
- The paraffin is removed from the aerial part and the branches are slightly cut (to a green healthy color).
- The most important point: a slightly recessed landing.
Many gardeners in Siberia found that tea, English varieties and floribunda survive better in frosts if the vaccination site is not 5 cm below the soil level, but 7-8 cm, i.e. a little deeper. Accordingly, for climbing roses, 12-15 cm are needed. Such plantings can be harder to cover, and some owners even refused shelter, buying varieties with high frost resistance.
You can learn more about the features of planting and caring for a climbing rose from the material: //diz-cafe.com/rastenija/posadka-i-uhod-za-pletistoy-rozoy.html
With a deepened planting, a rose can release roots above the grafting site, developing its own root system, which is weaker than that of a dog rose, so the “wrong” roots must be removed
When planting, the roots of the roses are straightened so that they go only from top to bottom, and do not wrap themselves in a ring. A landing mound can help such an arrangement: fertile soil is poured on the bottom of the pit, put a seedling on its top, straighten the roots along the mound and sprinkle it. When planting, a mound is watered after a rose is planted. With a normal planting, you can first shed the roots, and then fall asleep with soil.
After planting, the bush will certainly be spudded to a height of 15 cm. This is necessary so that the water does not evaporate quickly. The earth will also protect the delicate twigs from the scorching sun, because at the time of engraftment they dry out very quickly. In the northernmost regions, plantings are covered with lutrasil to protect against night frosts.
Siberian ways of sheltering such roses
So that rose cultivation in Siberia does not end with freezing of bushes in the first winter, gardeners have come up with many different shelter options. Their similarity is that for roses in a cold climate it is necessary to create a dry shelter, i.e. protect each seedling from above with waterproof material. It will protect the plant from moisture, which instantly turns into ice.
You can learn more about how to cover roses for the winter from the material: //diz-cafe.com/rastenija/kak-ukryt-rozy-na-zimu.html
Shelter Options:
- "Snow blanket". If your area has stable snowy winters, then throwing snow on each bush is the best shelter option. Indeed, in Siberia, snow falls both until the very spring, so that under it there is always a stable temperature.
- "Frame of plastic arcs." They make a frame of two intersecting arcs, put it on a rose, fill the bush with half-dry soil or leaves, cover it with a double layer of spunbond or lutrasil, on top of which the film is necessarily spread so that it captures part of the soil. Sprinkle the edges of the film with earth. Before the onset of stable frost, the film should be ajar so that the stems do not protrude.
- "Polycarbonate House". Instead of plastic arcs, two pieces of polycarbonate are placed above the rose, fastened with twine at the top. It turns out a house. Top cover with lutrasil and film. But at the ends the film is closed only after the onset of frost.
- "From plastic buckets." Each bush is spudded to a height of 20 cm, covered with spruce paws and covered with plastic containers without holes on top.
This is how it all looks:
You can’t cover roses only with lutrasil without using a film, since during the thaw, moisture accumulates inside, and during the first frost it will settle on the plants with ice
Shelter of roses with spruce paws is recommended for those owners who are full of mice, as they like to make nests in Lutrasil
With any type of shelter in early spring, many Siberians repeatedly spill the soil with epin to resuscitate their pets. Grateful roses endow the hosts with abundant and fragrant flowering, although nature has given them very little time.
